Retinol is not banned, but the EU is limiting its cosmetic use
On June 8, 2023, the European Commission notified the World Trade Organization (WTO) of a draft regulation that changes the regulation of certain ingredients, including the following forms of VITAMIN A: retinol, retinyl acetate, and retinyl palmitate. This new cosmetic regulation will enter into force at the end of […]
On June 8, 2023, the European Commission notified the World Trade Organization (WTO) of a draft regulation changing the regulation of certain ingredients, including the following forms of VITAMIN A: retinol, retinyl acetate, and retinyl palmitate.
This new cosmetic regulation will enter into force at the end of 2023. Therefore, cosmetic companies that use retinol will have until the end of the year to adapt their products to the permitted concentrations.
And why is the use of vitamin A being limited?
Vitamin A is essential for the proper functioning of the body; it is necessary for cell division, vision, bone development, preventing cellular oxidation, and stimulating immunity.
But Vitamin A, while essential, is harmful to health in high doses and can cause bone weakening, vision problems, liver damage, and fetal development disorders. Therefore, its daily intake is regulated.
A healthy and varied diet provides the necessary concentrations of vitamin A for most people, although it is permissible to supplement with both oral and topical supplements in controlled amounts.
In cosmetics, vitamin A and its derivatives are used as skin conditioning agents for their anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, depigmenting, and brightening properties. Dermatologists consider it the most effective active ingredient for treating all signs of aging; it remodels collagen, stimulates cell exfoliation, strengthens the barrier function, and reduces hyperpigmentation. Due to the increase in cosmetic products containing retinol, often in increasingly higher concentrations, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), in its October 2022 opinion, confirmed that the overall exposure of consumers to vitamin A could be exceeding the maximum limit determined by the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA).
Although the contribution of cosmetics is lower than that of other sources such as oral supplements, the SCCS identified maximum safety limits for the use of vitamin A in some cosmetic products.
What is the result of this evolution regarding the cosmetic use of retinol?
The result and conclusion of this draft Regulation is that the use of these 3 forms of Vitamin A will be permitted up to a maximum concentration of 0.05% retinol equivalent (RE) in body lotion and up to 0.3% retinol in facial products. The labeling of these products must also include the statement: “Contains vitamin A-related compounds, which contribute to your recommended daily intake of vitamin A.”
Does this regulation affect cosmetics with Bakuchiol?
No, because bakuchiol is not vitamin A. The bakuchiol-retinol comparison exists because bakuchiol provides similar benefits to those offered by retinol for improving the appearance of the skin; however, the chemical structure of bakuchiol is different from that of retinol.
So, if bakuchiol was already interesting compared to retinol for not being irritating, not being photosensitive, and not affecting pregnancy, it is much more so now because, as it is not a derivative of vitamin A and is not toxic to the body, we can use it in higher concentrations than retinol and be confident that they remain safe. Science has shown that concentrations between 0.5% and 2% of bakuchiol are ideal for obtaining visible benefits.
With bakuchiol, you improve the texture of your skin effectively and safely.
You can see our products with a 2% concentration of bakuchiol here
References:
WTO. (2023). Notification G/TBT/N/EU986. Retrieved 06/19/2023.
European Commission. (2023). Annex to the Commission Regulation…/…. Retrieved 06/19/2023.
